Golf: Greenest greens ever

Big hitters and fairway runners alike will enjoy the Hilo area’s 18- and 9-hole courses. Hilo’s municipal course does the city proud, with fun, long-running links and great views. Experienced golfers will want to experience the Volcano Course, on the slopes of the Mauna Loa.

These are not your overpriced Hawaiian resort courses. In general, the Big Island east’s greens fees are reasonable and the courses don’t skimp on those terrific island views.

Volcano Golf Course: Play 18 on the rim of the Kilauea crater — and forget about those balls lost to lava. The 6,500-yard course is located in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, about a half hour away from Hilo down Route 11.

Expect a challenge, especially on the greens as the ball breaks in mysterious ways toward the gigantic Mauna Loa volcano. Greens fees run $70 for visitors. The carts included, and you’ll need it because the course is something like 4,000 feet above sea level. There’s a $15 break in the cost after noon. Rental clubs available. Give our regards to No. 15. (808) 967-8228. Pi’i Mauna Drive, Volcano, Hi.

Hilo Municipal Golf Course: “The Muni” serves up 18 holes across 6,325 yards. Views of Hilo Bay. Tee boxes look down on flat fairways on which balls tend to run. No bunkers. Good for long hitters and high handicappers. Greens fees about $45 with $5 off for weekdays. 340 Haihai St., Hilo (808) 959-7711 (Map to golf course)

Naniloa Country Club: Let’s play two! This nine-hole course in the Banyan Drive area features beautiful views of Hilo Bay. Greens fees are reasonable for the islands — $40-45, cart included. 120 Banyan Drive, Hilo. (808) 935-3000. (Map to golf course)

Waimea Country Club: Worth the hour-plus drive up the coast from Hilo. Outstanding fast greens and 6,600 yards to cover. Views of the ocean and the volcano Mauna Kea. Four par 5s await power hitters on this Scottish links-style course. Fees run upwards of $100 for non-residents wanting a cart. $20 discount after 1 p.m. Preview the Waimea golf course, hole by hole. (808) 885-8777. (Map to golf course)

Tee Time Hawaii handles the necessities for most golf courses and offers some discounts.

Weddings like a dream

For drama, nothing beats a wedding ceremony at the edge of a volcano. Let the lucky couple’s love burn as bright as the molten lava, the locals say.

Not up for that much heat? The Big Island of Hawaii offers an abundance of beautiful tropical gardens, waterfalls and beaches as places to exchange vows. Or renew them.

When the big day comes on the Big Island, the romance of a world-class destination wedding becomes apparent.

Nani Mau Gardens provides a lush natural environment that has embraced many a wedding party. In fact, it’s often been voted the best place to get married on the Big Island.

Nani Mau has 20 acres of gardens dedicated to tropical flowers, orchids and waterfalls. Couples can be married in the gardens, on a covered walkway or in a pavilion. A tree-planting ceremony is a nice touch.

Nani Mau offers a full suite of wedding-day services, including buffets or banquets g for up to 400 guests.

The gardens are just outside Hilo and about 25 miles northeast of the volcanoes park.

More locations for weddings in the Hilo area:

• Lili’uokalani Park and Gardens (city park)
• Akaka Falls State Park
• Punalu’u Black Sand Beach (Beach House)

Getting a marriage license in Hawaii

Getting married on the Big Island is a breeze. All that’s needed is a marriage license — no blood tests or waiting periods.

The man and woman seeking a license must appear before a licensed marriage agent. Driver’s licenses are accepted as identification and proof of age for those 19 and older. A certified copy of the birth certificate is mandated for 18-year-olds.

In Hilo, the marriage license office is located at:
75 Aupuni Street
Hilo, HI 96720
(808) 974-6262

There also are independent license agents.

The state of Hawaii marriage license costs $60 and is good for 30 days. The Hawaii wedding application can be downloaded and filled out in advance, but cannot sent to the agent via mail.

The person performing the ceremony must be licensed by the state.

Wedding photographers in the Hilo area include:
R.W. Smith Photography
James Rubio Photography
Walczuk Productions

World’s best volcano park

One of the world’s natural wonders, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park dates back to 1916. But visitors have been coming for something like 1,600 years.

The U.S. park covers 377 square miles and is criss-crossed by a network of hiking trails that stretch 150 miles.

Home to two active volcanoes — Kilauea and Mauna Loa — this is a region shaped by fire, ash, lava and earthquakes. Its geographical diversity takes you from rain forests to lunar landscapes. Lava in one form or another will be your constant companion.

The Kilauea caldera (cauldron, roughly) is the home of Pele, the Hawaii goddess of fire, local legends say. Pele stays plenty busy, based on the volcanic activity. Mauna Loa has periodic eruptions and is considered the most massive mountain in the world.

You’ll need at least a half day for a proper visit to the park. The main drag is the Crater Rim Drive, normally an 11-mile drive but parts of the road are closed due to recent volcanic activity.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park admissions, fees
The place is a great deal. $10 yields a seven-day parking permit that covers admission for everyone inside the vehicle. If you’re hiking in, bicycling or on a motorcycle, expect to pay $5 for an individual admission. Same goes for noncommercial groups in buses. An annual pass costs $25. Camping is free and there are no reservations, just stake your claim in the two vehicle-accessible areas or in the backcountry, with permit. The park never closes.

Visitors center, museum
The park itself never closes, but the visitors center shuts down at 5 p.m. The center screens a half-hour film, “Born of Fire … Born of the Sea,” with showings starting at 9 a.m. There is a small gallery nearby featuring, of course, volcano art. The Thomas A. Jaggar Museum shows off seismographs and various tools and clothing worn by generations of volcanologists who ventured into the big heat. There are several small bookstores.

Volcanic eruptions and disruptions
Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, continues the eruptions in its eastern zone that began in March 2008. This was the first explosive eruption of the main Halemaumau crater since 1982, the park says. A series of outbursts has continued since then. Scientists are keeping an eye on the molten lava lake that’s visible in the vent. Check on the status of Kilauea at the USGS web site.

Not all lava flows stay within the park. Lava from Kilauea’s summit has been flowing through volcanic tubes to the ocean at Waikupanaha. A lava viewing station is set up at the end of Highway 130, although wind and weather conditions sometimes cause closings. The vent is in a remote area that can’t be accessed. For details on the ocean lava viewing call (808) 961-8093.

More runaway lava flowed to the Pacific and the black sand beaches of Kalapana starting in the late 1980s. Surfers in Hilo still mourn the loss of some terrific break points along the beaches. The newly formed Kalapana beach is a fine place to visit unless you actually want to go swimming.

Hiking the trails and other adventures
Among the famous paths is the Mauna Loa Trail, up the slopes of the mountain to the 13,679 foot summit. Day trippers can venture up for a half day, but the hardy and experienced trekkers will do the 18-mile journey to the top and back, which takes about two days. The less adventurous might want to tackle the Puu Huluhulu Summit trail and the Earthquake Trail. The parks service offers detail on day hikes and backcountry excursions.

Plants and animals: A delicate balance
The volcano park’s seven distinct eco-systems face threats both natural and unnatural. The park’s list of endangered species includes the nene (Hawaiian goose), Hawaiian petrel, hawksbill turtle and the Kau silversword. Feral pigs, sheep, goats, rats and cats are among the invaders that park rangers are trying to eliminate. Rangers say there are 23 species of endangered vascular plants as well as 15 types of endangered trees, all subject to damage from invasive plants and weeds. Six endangered bird species call the park home. Visitors are urged to stay clear of the Hawaiian geese. There are road-crossing signs for the nene.

Archeological sites, petroglyphs
The park is home to about 300 archeological sites, including the famed Puuloa area with its wealth of petroglyphs (lava and rock engravings). The park estimates there are 23,000 petroglyph images at Puuloa. Other petroglyphs are scattered about the park. About 6,000 archeological items are in the park museum’s permanent collection.

Weather in the Volcanoes National Park
Weather in Volcano is as diverse as its eco-systems. Prepare for just about anything: Typical items in a savvy visitor’s suitcase would include sweaters, rain gear, windbreakers, long and short pants, hardy shoes or hiking boots, sunglasses, flashlights and high UV protective sunscreen. The coastal plain and desert areas are hot, dry and windy; the summits and high-altitude observatories can be bone-chillingly wet and windy. Stand by for everything from showers to a tsunami.

Safety in the Volcanoes National Park
“Common sense is not enough,” rangers say of the various dangers, great and small, that await visitors in this dynamic geographical region. Children should not be allowed to play near cliffs, cracks, cravasses, hot lava and steam vents. A fall on lava can be unpleasant or dangerous.

People with asthma, heart trouble and related conditions should steer clear of volcanic gasses (fumes). Pregnant women and infants also should take care with exposure to fumes. The volcano region’s air quality is closely monitored and reported upon. The dangerous gasses can and do lead to evacuations of nearby villages.

Hiking, cycling: Good to go

The hiking trails in Volcanoes National Park could keep a visitor occupied for an entire stay on the Big Island. You’ll marvel at the lava (and sting from the sulfur fumes). See nature takes back its domains after various volcanic eruptions. Dodge steam vents and cracks in the earth. Hike to the ocean and back. Visit sacred Hawaiian sites. Birdwatch and marvel at the sight of plants you couldn’t even dream up.

There are more than 150 miles of trails in the Volcanoes National Park. Some are pleasant for granny and the kids, others require a good bit of physical conditioning and hiking experience. Here’s a sample, with estimates of difficulty.

Earthquake Trail (easy) — Also known as Waldron Ledge. You’ll stroll along the old Crater Rim Drive, which met its match in a 6.6 earthquake in the 1980s. A good hike for those who are timid about walking on a caldera floor, but want to experience it at a safe distance. Wheelchair friendly thanks to the sealed-off asphalt road. A little under a mile, with easy access from the Volcano House hotel.

Pu’u Huluhulu (moderate). A 3-mile hike that’ll take you to the top of Pu’u Huluhulu for one of the best views in the volcano park. You’ll gaze upon Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea and the Pacific. Lava everywhere, watch your step and consider wearing hiking boots. The walk to the summit Mauna Ulu is an optional extension, not recommended for kids. To access the trail, drive to the Mauna Ulu parking area, off the Chain of Craters Road. (Note: This trail is in the park, not the one off Saddle Road.)

Crater Rim Trail (difficult) — The park calls this “an awe inspiring journey through an active volcano” that circles Kilauea’s summit caldera and the Kilauea Iki pit crater. Eleven miles of hiking through various environments to the elevation of 4,000 feet. Be prepared for abrupt weather shifts, high winds and some nasty sulfur fumes. The park warns that asthma sufferers should avoid the gases. Start early, figure six hours and keep your eyes on the sun.

The National Park Service web site offers quick takes on the volcano trails. Alternative Hawaii has a good guide to hiking in the Volcanoes National Park. Instant Hawaii takes detailed looks at the hiking trails.

Cycling near Hilo: On and off road

The east side of the Big Island is teeming with great bike trails. Aggressive mountain bikers, road riders and sightseers all can find a perfect trail somewhere nearby. Bike trails do become quite slippery after rains (meaning most the time), so know your skill level. Always check out a trail with local bike shops (below). Also, see if you can get a copy of the “Mountain Biking the Hawaiian Islands” book.

A trio of trails

The University of Hawaii at Hilo offers a challenging 1km bike trail that accommodates casual bicyclists but still challenges seasoned mountain bike riders. There are two loops, one fast, one somewhat treacherous. Finishing the course in under 6 minutes is considered good. The trail was built by a professor for the purpose of training mountain bikers and other serious riders. Less-experienced bicyclists should do the inner loop (clockwise) when it’s dry. Wild pigs enjoy the trail, too. Access via the upper athletic parking lot, near the softball field. View an interactive UHH bike trail map with video and riders’ comments.

Kulani Trails — The good news is this is a bracing 6-plus-mile ride located in a forest. The bad is you’ll need help. Local knowledge is almost certainly needed to fully appreciate the singletrack trails. Famed for its 4 p.m. Friday rides, in which the local heavies do the trails, no matter the weather. The fire roads are good for beginners. About six miles south of Hilo. Take Highway 11 toward Volcano. Turn right on Stainback highway and go a couple of miles, passing the zoo. Look for the Kunali Forest and Quarry Road sign. Consult local bike shops before hitting the trail.

Tree Planters — A dual track ride that can kill a day. The action is all off-road. Directions are the same as for the Kulani Trails, but instead of turning at the quarry continue 12 miles or so until Road P, take a right.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park — All roads are open to bicyclists. The park suggests cyclists start their trip at the Kilauea Visitor Center for the latest on trails and closures. View the volcano park bicycling map.

An outfit called Bikevolcano.com does well-regarded cycling tours of the Kilauea Volcano. (808) 934-9199

Here are two of Hilo’s top bike shops:

Hilo Bike Hub — The bicycle shop of choice for those ready to drop some bucks on a new ride. All repair and upgrade services. The shop features mountain bikes, road bikes, kids bikes and BMX. Good place to go for assembly if you’ve had a bicycle shipped to the island. Repository of local knowledge of trails. 318 East Kawili St. (808) 961-4452.

Da Kine Bike Shop — “New, used and vintage bikes and parts” at this downtown Hilo shop run by Bill Jackson. The logo and web site focus on “recycled bicycles.” The shop also runs bicycle tours of the area, complete with casual catering and a “sag wagon” for extra-weary riders. A rent-to-buy program might make sense for visitors who aren’t in a hurry to leave the island. 18 Furneaux Lane. (808) 934-9861

In Pahoa try the Aikane Bicycle and Sport Shop. (808) 966-6060

Alternative Hawaii has a good guide to cycling in the Volcanoes National Park.

Shopping in paradise

Hilo is one of the Big Island’s few shopping destinations. Visitors won’t have any trouble finding the usual tourist trinkets, of course, but savvy shoppers will discover exciting regional crafts, foods and clothing.

The basic mall crawl beckons at the Prince Kuhio Plaza, while Hilo’s famous downtown farmer’s market offers an adventure for the senses. Hilo never runs out of Hawaiian shirts, good and bad. And you’ll be needing that hand-crafted ukelele for the long flight home, of course.

HILO’S MALL
Prince Kuhio Plaza: More than 75 shops and fast-food joints mean you’ll find pretty much anything at this popular mall located in downtown Hilo. Macy’s and Sears anchor the facility. Hot Dog on a Stick, Starbucks, Sunglass Hut, Radio Shack, Footlocker … check. Hosts Hilo’s movie theater of choice for first-run films. Good food court and family entertainment center. 111 E. Puainako St. (808) 959-3555

GROCERIES AND GOODIES
Big Island Candies: This sweet spot has been packing in tourists since 1977. Macadamia nut candies and cookies are made on site, using ingredients such as Kona coffee and local eggs. Also sells brownies, shortbreads, coffees and mints. 585 Hinano St. (808) 935-8890.

Kta Super Stores: Where the locals shop for regional foods. Some shoppers find Kta too expensive, while others say the price is right, especially for the high-quality seafood. Try the poke counter for the Hawaiian dish of seasoned raw fish, onions, soy sauce and seaweed (a cousin to ceviche). Also praised for its bakery, with all things macadamia amd mochi. 50 E. Puainko St. (808) 322-2511. Also, 321 Keawe St.

Hilo Farmers Market: Foodies don’t care if they ever come back from this Wednesday and Saturday-only street adventure. Tropical fruits, leafy-bright vegetables, amazing flowers, carts with every kind of regional ethnic fare. Be sure to sample the white pineapple and the Peruvian tamales. Tourists will find good prices on jewelry and trinkets, some locally crafted. More than 200 vendors, usually. Come early or miss out, locals say. Mamo Street and Kamehameha Ave. (808) 933-1000

Island Naturals Market: The Big Island’s version of Whole Foods, on a smaller scale of course. Meats, wines, organic produce. Vegetarian and vegan fare, to go or eat there. 303 Makaala St. (808) 935-5533. Three other Big Island locations. Also try Abundant Foods and Cafe.

SPECIALTY SHOPS
Hilo Guitars: Bills itself as “the best little guitar and ukulele shop in Hawaii.” Many musicians who visit the Big Island discover the big sounds produced by Hawaii’s little instrument of choice — that is, in the right hands. Here’s the place to get a high-quality musical souvenir. Hilo Guitars stocks ukuleles from Kanile’a, Kamata and G-String, as well as some from the Big Island. Owner Ken Cameron is a Scottish musician with a long history in the business. (808) 935-4282 56 Ponahawaii St.

Discount Fabric Warehouse: Major stash of Hawaiian print fabrics. 933 Kanoelehua Ave. (808) 935-1234

Hilo surf shops: Everything from longboards to skateboards.

CLOTHING
Hilo Hattie: The touchstone for tourists, Hattie offers up your basic Hawaiian shirts, mu’u mu’s, leis, shell and coconut jewelry, Kona coffees, snacks. One-stop shopping for the folks back home. We’ll never tell. In the Prince Kuhio Plaza. (808) 961-3077. Another Big Island Hilo Hattie shop in Kailua-Kona.

Sig Zane Shopping: Good quality, tasteful Hawaiian shirts at a price that’s about a third less than, say, Tommy Bahama. Low-key to amplified designs. Pullovers and button-down styles. For the ladies, an even wider selection of dresses, blouses and hoodies. 122 Kamehameha Ave. (808) 935-7077

LUXURY SHOPPING EXPEDITION
King’s Shops at Waikoloa: Recession? What recession? Cash those traveler’s checks at Tiffany’s and party like it’s 2007. Upscale retailers include Coach, Noa-Noa, Louis Vuitton and several art galleries. In the Waikoloa Beach Resort. About a two-hour drive through the heart of the island.

Lush life, in the gardens

Rain forests, waterfalls, lush landscaped gardens, paradises for bird watchers: Whatever’s needed to relax you, it’s easily found on the Hilo side of the Big Island.

Here are some of our favorite places to take in the island’s abundant natural beauty, all easily reached from Hilo.

Nani Mau Gardens — 20 acres featuring a bevvy of carefully tended gardens. Nani Mau means “forever beautiful,” truth in advertising in this case. Here is the place to stroll, contemplate nature and erase the stresses of everyday life. Waterfalls (pictured, left) and ponds dot the property. One garden is devoted entirely to annuals, refreshed daily. Another takes visitors through a thicket of tree ferns, accented by heart-shaped red anthurium. There are also an orchid walkway and a water garden. Take walking and riding tours of the grounds. As you’d expect, it’s a popular spot for weddings. About three miles south of the Hilo Airport on Highway 11. Look for the landscaped “aloha” logo marking the turnoff onto Makalika Street. Open 9-6 daily. (808) 959-3500.  The Nanimau Gardens is now closed.  The are still open for banquets and special functions.

Liliuokalani Gardens: Peaceful 30-acre Japanese garden with views of Hilo Bay. For those with a yen for zen. The edo-style gardens are among the largest outside Japan. Carp ponds, atmospheric bridges, pagodas, rock gardens and a tea house keep photographers busy. Named for Queen Liliuokalani Gardens, the Big Island’s last ruling monarch. A jogging trail encircles the gardens. Free. Between downtown Hilo and the airport on Banyan Road.

Akaka Falls State Park — A short hike through a fern forest brings you to two photo-op waterfalls: Akaka and Kahuna. Akaka stands a mighty 420 feet tall and freefalls its water into a gorge. It is considered one of the most scenic attractions on the Big Island, think “Fantasy Island.” Kahuna, still impressive at 100 feet, rests at the end of an bamboo grove. The falls’ circular path (an easy 0.4 miles) leads through a rain forest with banyan trees and plenty of wild orchids and vines. Look for the sign near mile marker 13 on Route 19, north of Hilo.

World Botanical Gardens — The triple-tiered Umauma Falls is the star attraction on these 300 acres of greenery. The facility is still under development, but has been open for almost five years. The northern border is the Umauma River, which feeds the 300-foot waterfall. The grounds were used as sugarcane fields. An orchid wall, rainforest walk and choice ocean views are among the highlights. From Hilo, drive west on Highway 19 and look for the sign at marker 16. Open 9-5:30 daily. (808) 896-9434

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