Fine dining in paradise

In Hilo, the local chefs always think big

Whether it’s the rib-sticking local specialties or the tourist-pleasing gourmet plates, Hilo-area restaurants have much to offer hungry visitors.

Follow the locals to an outdoor patio place or settle in at a romantic restaurant overlooking Hilo Bay. Or dig into seafood and chops as you feel the heat from a live volcano.

Fish doesn’t get much fresher, out here in the Pacific. (Especially if you dine at the aqua farm!) Meat dishes range from island favorite Spam to kalua pig to grass-fed, pasture-raised Big Island beef.

Remember, dressing for dinner is a loose concept in this part of the Big Island. Restaurant dress codes are either nonexistent or quite casual. The aloha spirit keeps the service friendly and welcoming.

Here are some of the best restaurants in the Hilo area:

Ken’s House of Pancakes: A 24-hour diner serving everything from macadamia-nut pancakes to tripe stew. Bargain diners go for the Loco Moco, a rice, beef, gravy and egg dish invented here in Hilo. Moco protein variations include Spam and mahi-mahi. None but the brave go for the belly-busting Sumo Moco. You could kill the morning just reading the menu. Wednesday is the big night for prime rib. (Restaurant map) (808) 935-8711

Hilo Bay Cafe: Considered one of the better dining experiences in town, despite the strip mall location. Sierra Nevada on tap, warm bacon on the salads and gorgonzola on the burgers. Tasteful ambience but no need to dress up. Californians will feel right at home. (Map) (808) 935-4939 (Hilo restaurant review)

Cafe 100: Locals, surfers and adventurous eaters come for the Loco Moco, “an artery-clogging delight.” You order at the window and sit in a patio dining area. Those on a diet should look elsewhere: this is hearty fare done to excess. Getting spammed here is a good thing. All of the local favorites at friendly prices. Some claim the Loco Moco was invented here, but the old timers know better. (Map) (808) 935-8683

Cafe Pesto: Excellent downtown location on Hilo Bay. Asian, Italian and local influences. Known for its designer pizzas, Asian nachos and shrimp-crab sandwiches. Local seafood and ingredients. Thoughtful selection of salads, including seared poke on spinach. Some complaints about price, but not the food. Located in the S. Hata Building, which dates back to 1912. (Map) (808) 969-6640

Seaside Restaurant: The dining annex of a local aqua farm that raises tilapia, catfish, rainbow trout, carp, papio and more. Favorite Seaside menu selections are steamed mullet and fried aholehole. Locals say to preorder your fish before coming, since they’re taken from the ponds and cooked earlier in the day. (808) 935-8825 (Map to Seaside Restaurant)

Naung Mai Thai Kitchen: A much-needed face-lift brings this “hole in the wall’s” decor in line with its often-praised food. Diners like the “great tasting Thai food that won’t damage your pocket book.” Near the local farmers market, where the Thai chefs find their organic produce. Cool off afterwards with the Hilo homemade ice cream. (Map) (808) 934-7540

Also of note:

Kuhio Grille: Try the fried rice Loco Moco. (808) 959-2336

Don’s Grill: Locals crowd in for the budget-minded eats. (808) 935-9099

Blane’s Drive-Ins: Four locations, all serving up loco moco bowls and plates. (808) 935-3359

Sombat’s Fresh Thai Cuisine: Another contender for top Thai in town. (808) 969-9336

Jimmy’s Drive Inn: Sturdy Korean barbecue. Go for the Ozen bento. (808) 935-5571

Have a favorite restaurant in and around Hilo that we missed? Please leave a comment or brief review below.

Arts, culture and science

Observing the observatories

Call it big sky country. The Big Island volcano region hosts some of the world’s most advanced observatories, probing the heavens and our own planet.

With some effort and planning, the peak experience can be found atop the 14,000 summit of Mauna Kea. The observatories aren’t in the theme park business, so don’t plan on guided tours. Instead, you’ll stand on a lunar landscape and be treated to an awesome display of earth, clouds and sky that’s unique on the planet.

Many people find enough adventure with a trip to the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy, where “unmanned” telescopes are the main attraction. Since the center is above the cloud cover, at 9,300 feet, visitors who stay past sunset have vivid views of the planets, stars, constellations, galaxies, supernovas and perhaps sunspots.

Close by in Hilo, just above the local University of Hawaii campus, is the tourist-friendly Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaii. The $28 million facility, with its high-tech planetarium, seeks to “explore the connections between Hawaiian culture and astronomy.”

Exploring the Mauna Kea summit
High above the cloud cover, the summit of Mauna Kea hosts a cluster of 13 telescopes from around the world. Mauna Kea visitors usually can’t look through any of these giant optical devices, unfortunately — they’re always booked by astronomers and scientists studying things like global warming.

Most people who’ve made the trip come away with vivid memories of an otherworldly experience, however. You come for the mind-blowing view and the adventure.

Some basic considerations: A trip to the summit requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Rental car agencies do not permit cars to make the journey. The road is steep and unpaved in part. The Mauna Kea weather forecast is always … unpredictable. Warm clothing is a must due to high winds and the cold. (Winter months are December through early April.) Visitors are not allowed on the summit after dark, although you can stay to experience the sunset. The ride back is the trickiest part. Allow three hours for the roundtrip if starting in Hilo.

The W.M. Keck Observatory hosts a visitors gallery with a video, a viewing area and restrooms. Hours are 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Monday through Friday.

The Subaru Telescope offers tours about 15 days a month. Telescope tour reservations must be made a week in advance via the web site. The presentation lasts about 40 minutes.

At a less intense 9,300 feet above sea level is the the Onizuka Center visitor station, a popular destination and altitude-adjustment waystation. The center has a group of high-quality telescopes that are available to the public. Volunteers from the University of Hawaii’s astronomy program often are on hand to educate and help with the telescopes. Some visitors recommend speaking up in order to get assistance, which can be spotty.

The stargazing operation runs 6 p.m.-10 p.m., although the center opens at 9 a.m. There are basic refreshments (including astronaut ice cream) and a video orientation.

Imiloa Center reaches for the stars
The tourist-friendly Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaii builds upon the discoveries made by the Mauna Kea observatories.

The 40,000-square-foot planetarium and exhibition facility offers interactive exhibits and shows. The planetarium has a state-of-the-art stereoscopic 3D images and a 5.1 audio system. The main presentation is “Maunakea: Between Earth and Sky.” Recent shows included “Black Holes: The Other Side of Infinity” and “Hawaii’s Observatories.” A Friday night presentation built around the music of U2 was another popular showcase for the (real) stars.

Admission is $17.50 for adults, $9.50 for most kids. Kamaaina rates are also available for Hawaii residents.  If you are planning for a group of 12 or more, the center offers special rates.  The Imiloa Center is closed Monday and on Christmas, Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day. The center is open from 9am – 4pm.

Atop Mauna Loa
The Mauna Loa Observatory is an atmospheric-research facility that offers tours by appointment. Mauna Loa is the world’s largest “shield” volcano and one of the most active. The observatory sits about 11,000 feet above sea level, on the volcano’s north flank.

Surfing Big Island East

Surfers headed to the Hilo area will find dozens of spots worth exploring. Some of these Hilo side surfing beaches are hard to miss; others almost certainly require local knowledge.

Sorry, no North Shore-style giant waves to be found here, but many surfing spots are crowd-free, Pacific-gorgeous and plenty challenging, even for the most experienced riders. In many cases, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to transport people and gear.

Some old-school Big Island favorites, such as the legendary Drainpipe and Smashface in Kalapana, have been lost to lava flow from the Kilauea Volcano, a dynamic unique to the area. A dozen or so spots vanished in the early ’90s, locals say. Beware of hot foot.

The local surf shops will steer visitors to good spots for their skill levels, but some detective work will be required to find the prime breaks. As with any competitive beach environment, surfing etiquette and respect shown to locals go a long way toward avoiding confrontations. Giving up a primo wave or two never hurts.

Winter is pro time. Summer waves are on the smaller side. Know your limits: Many of these breaks are appropriate only for highly accomplished surfers.

Beaches tend to be black sand, white sand or salt-and-pepper mixes. There’s even a green sand beach (but you can’t surf it).

The history of surfing in Hilo goes back to the time of the ancestors’ ancestors.

In 1888, traveler Thomas Knox reported on the tradition of surfing at Hilo Bay, “the sport in the water for which the natives are famous.” The locals were using “planks” up to 15 feet long and made of a “a bread-fruit tree.”

The Hilo region offers a small but robust selection of surf shops in which to pick out your new plank — or rent one.

Top surfing destinations on the east and southeast side of the Island:

Honolii Beach Park (Cove) — Hilo’s main drag for surfers. Beautiful black sand beach. A trio of fun breaks at the mouth of the river. At Paukaa, look for the cemetery.

Hakalau: Something for all levels of surfers. Near the Hakalau Bridge, about 20 minutes north of Hilo. Waves up 16 feet.

Hilo Bay Beachfront: Three thousand feet of black sand, but few swimmers. Used mostly for surfing and other water sports. Water is typically cold and murky. Surfers do their best work near the mouth of the Wailuku River.

Bayfront (Hilo Bay Front): For hardy, experienced surfers only. “Jump off bridge access.” Powerful waves and a tough paddle out.

Hilo Breakwall: For very experienced surfers. Access by boat only. Waves 16 feet and over.

Pohoiki Bay: (Issac Hale Park). Good for most surfers, with nine breaks. Waves at the “third bay” can hit 15 feet. Popular spot appears to have mellowed somewhat from its locals-only days. About 25 miles north of Hilo.

There are numerous surf spots south, southeast and southwest of Pahoa, about 30 minutes away from Hilo.

2-day surfer’s trip: The drop-dead gorgeous Waipio Valley on the northeast coast awaits experienced and adventurous surfers. The famed and feared beach has riptides, undertow and epic rides. Can break like Pipe with some massive waves. Four-wheel-drive truck required to access beach. The locals-only vibe for surfing these breaks requires caution and strict attention to etiquette. Worth it just to experience the enormous cliffs and waterfalls.

The Kona and Kohala coasts host the island’s most active surf scene, with many spots of note and legend.

Surfing conditions: View the Hawaii Surf News charts.

View a rough map of the Big Island’s surfing haunts.

Big Island parks map.

Sharks: They’re out there. Always ask and never hesitate to hit the sand if there’s a warning.

Surfing events: 2009 will see the 25th Quicksilver-Kamaaina Nissan Big Island Pro Am surfing trials. Categories include men’s and women’s open, longboard open and bodyboard open. Runs late May to late September. Hawaii Island residents only. (808) 935-1533

Hilo surf shops:
Orchidland Surfboards — Large selection of stock and custom surfboards, as well as body boards. Owner Stan Lawrence, a local legend, does the shaping for the in-house boards. Repairs and rentals. Dates back to the early 1970s. 262 Kamehameha Ave. (808) 935-1533

Hilo Surfboard Company. New and used boards. Sells boards on consignment. Specializes in board repairs. 84 Ponahawai St. 808 934-0925

Big Island Surf Company (2) — Chain with four locations on the Island. Surf and skateboards. 111 East Puainako St. (808) 959-2472

Big Island Built — Apparel and surf products. Sells and rents boards. In the Prince Kuhio Plaza. (866) 489-5395

In Pahoa, Jeff Hunt Surfboards: Sells Hunt’s signature boards as well as gear and beach apparel. 15-2883 Pahoa Village Road. (808) 965-2322.

Airlines and surfboards:
Almost all domestic airlines charge for surfboards. Priced either by the bag or by the board. Fees start at about $50 and range up to $100-plus each way. Some airlines will not accept boards during the holidays and other busy periods. Airlines cite the size of boards and the special handling required. Surfers have tried boycotts of unfriendly carriers.

Surfers, have something to add? Leave a comment!

Nightlife at a breezy pace

Tropical drinks, extra umbrellas? Straight no chaser? Corona with a lime?

No problem. Coming right up.

Hilo’s nightlife keeps a relatively low profile — this being a daytime town — but there’s always a watering hole nearby.

Many tourists stay in to enjoy their hotel’s cocktail bar, often a wise choice for meeting and greeting fellow travelers.

But frequent visitors would argue that the best times await those who venture out, sharing the buzz with the town’s usual mix of college kids, tourists and good-timing locals.

Hilo has an active music scene, with traditional Hawaiian acts, rappers, electronica DJs and rock bands all working the bar scene. Don’t like karaoke? Better stay in, after all.

Favorite bars, lounges and clubs in Hilo:

Shooters Bar & Grill: A club that gets its grove on near the midnight hour. DJ, sports on TV, pool tables, darts. Blues jams. Mingle with the locals … but watch your step come closing time. 121 Banyan Drive. (808) 969-7069

Pahoa Lounge: Features live music, usually young Hawaiian music acts. Popular with locals. (808) 933-2667

Palms by the Bay: Karaoke, sushi, pupus, dancing in the aisles. Who could resist. 80 Pauahi St. (808) 961-6461

Cronies: Sports bar and grill with a lively mix of college kids and younger tourists. Order up some regional beer. Decent menu with burgers, sashimi and ribs. Pool tables, karaoke, games. 11 Waianuenue Ave. (808) 935-5158

The Emerald Orchid: Local and craftsman beers. Some dancing and scattered entertainment. A couple of Irish dishes keep the bar’s name honest, but mostly it’s fried bar-stuff and pupus. 168A Keawe St. (808) 961-5400

Bamboo Garden: Locals say this is the place for piles of exceptional pupus, free with the alcohol orders. Sports reign on multiple TVs. Karaoke. 718 Kinoole St. (808) 935-8952

How could we forget?! Leave a comment about your favorite place or tell a story.