Surfing Big Island East

Surfers headed to the Hilo area will find dozens of spots worth exploring. Some of these Hilo side surfing beaches are hard to miss; others almost certainly require local knowledge.

Sorry, no North Shore-style giant waves to be found here, but many surfing spots are crowd-free, Pacific-gorgeous and plenty challenging, even for the most experienced riders. In many cases, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to transport people and gear.

Some old-school Big Island favorites, such as the legendary Drainpipe and Smashface in Kalapana, have been lost to lava flow from the Kilauea Volcano, a dynamic unique to the area. A dozen or so spots vanished in the early ’90s, locals say. Beware of hot foot.

The local surf shops will steer visitors to good spots for their skill levels, but some detective work will be required to find the prime breaks. As with any competitive beach environment, surfing etiquette and respect shown to locals go a long way toward avoiding confrontations. Giving up a primo wave or two never hurts.

Winter is pro time. Summer waves are on the smaller side. Know your limits: Many of these breaks are appropriate only for highly accomplished surfers.

Beaches tend to be black sand, white sand or salt-and-pepper mixes. There’s even a green sand beach (but you can’t surf it).

The history of surfing in Hilo goes back to the time of the ancestors’ ancestors.

In 1888, traveler Thomas Knox reported on the tradition of surfing at Hilo Bay, “the sport in the water for which the natives are famous.” The locals were using “planks” up to 15 feet long and made of a “a bread-fruit tree.”

The Hilo region offers a small but robust selection of surf shops in which to pick out your new plank — or rent one.

Top surfing destinations on the east and southeast side of the Island:

Honolii Beach Park (Cove) — Hilo’s main drag for surfers. Beautiful black sand beach. A trio of fun breaks at the mouth of the river. At Paukaa, look for the cemetery.

Hakalau: Something for all levels of surfers. Near the Hakalau Bridge, about 20 minutes north of Hilo. Waves up 16 feet.

Hilo Bay Beachfront: Three thousand feet of black sand, but few swimmers. Used mostly for surfing and other water sports. Water is typically cold and murky. Surfers do their best work near the mouth of the Wailuku River.

Bayfront (Hilo Bay Front): For hardy, experienced surfers only. “Jump off bridge access.” Powerful waves and a tough paddle out.

Hilo Breakwall: For very experienced surfers. Access by boat only. Waves 16 feet and over.

Pohoiki Bay: (Issac Hale Park). Good for most surfers, with nine breaks. Waves at the “third bay” can hit 15 feet. Popular spot appears to have mellowed somewhat from its locals-only days. About 25 miles north of Hilo.

There are numerous surf spots south, southeast and southwest of Pahoa, about 30 minutes away from Hilo.

2-day surfer’s trip: The drop-dead gorgeous Waipio Valley on the northeast coast awaits experienced and adventurous surfers. The famed and feared beach has riptides, undertow and epic rides. Can break like Pipe with some massive waves. Four-wheel-drive truck required to access beach. The locals-only vibe for surfing these breaks requires caution and strict attention to etiquette. Worth it just to experience the enormous cliffs and waterfalls.

The Kona and Kohala coasts host the island’s most active surf scene, with many spots of note and legend.

Surfing conditions: View the Hawaii Surf News charts.

View a rough map of the Big Island’s surfing haunts.

Big Island parks map.

Sharks: They’re out there. Always ask and never hesitate to hit the sand if there’s a warning.

Surfing events: 2009 will see the 25th Quicksilver-Kamaaina Nissan Big Island Pro Am surfing trials. Categories include men’s and women’s open, longboard open and bodyboard open. Runs late May to late September. Hawaii Island residents only. (808) 935-1533

Hilo surf shops:
Orchidland Surfboards — Large selection of stock and custom surfboards, as well as body boards. Owner Stan Lawrence, a local legend, does the shaping for the in-house boards. Repairs and rentals. Dates back to the early 1970s. 262 Kamehameha Ave. (808) 935-1533

Hilo Surfboard Company. New and used boards. Sells boards on consignment. Specializes in board repairs. 84 Ponahawai St. 808 934-0925

Big Island Surf Company (2) — Chain with four locations on the Island. Surf and skateboards. 111 East Puainako St. (808) 959-2472

Big Island Built — Apparel and surf products. Sells and rents boards. In the Prince Kuhio Plaza. (866) 489-5395

In Pahoa, Jeff Hunt Surfboards: Sells Hunt’s signature boards as well as gear and beach apparel. 15-2883 Pahoa Village Road. (808) 965-2322.

Airlines and surfboards:
Almost all domestic airlines charge for surfboards. Priced either by the bag or by the board. Fees start at about $50 and range up to $100-plus each way. Some airlines will not accept boards during the holidays and other busy periods. Airlines cite the size of boards and the special handling required. Surfers have tried boycotts of unfriendly carriers.

Surfers, have something to add? Leave a comment!