World’s best volcano park

One of the world’s natural wonders, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park dates back to 1916. But visitors have been coming for something like 1,600 years.

The U.S. park covers 377 square miles and is criss-crossed by a network of hiking trails that stretch 150 miles.

Home to two active volcanoes — Kilauea and Mauna Loa — this is a region shaped by fire, ash, lava and earthquakes. Its geographical diversity takes you from rain forests to lunar landscapes. Lava in one form or another will be your constant companion.

The Kilauea caldera (cauldron, roughly) is the home of Pele, the Hawaii goddess of fire, local legends say. Pele stays plenty busy, based on the volcanic activity. Mauna Loa has periodic eruptions and is considered the most massive mountain in the world.

You’ll need at least a half day for a proper visit to the park. The main drag is the Crater Rim Drive, normally an 11-mile drive but parts of the road are closed due to recent volcanic activity.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park admissions, fees
The place is a great deal. $10 yields a seven-day parking permit that covers admission for everyone inside the vehicle. If you’re hiking in, bicycling or on a motorcycle, expect to pay $5 for an individual admission. Same goes for noncommercial groups in buses. An annual pass costs $25. Camping is free and there are no reservations, just stake your claim in the two vehicle-accessible areas or in the backcountry, with permit. The park never closes.

Visitors center, museum
The park itself never closes, but the visitors center shuts down at 5 p.m. The center screens a half-hour film, “Born of Fire … Born of the Sea,” with showings starting at 9 a.m. There is a small gallery nearby featuring, of course, volcano art. The Thomas A. Jaggar Museum shows off seismographs and various tools and clothing worn by generations of volcanologists who ventured into the big heat. There are several small bookstores.

Volcanic eruptions and disruptions
Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, continues the eruptions in its eastern zone that began in March 2008. This was the first explosive eruption of the main Halemaumau crater since 1982, the park says. A series of outbursts has continued since then. Scientists are keeping an eye on the molten lava lake that’s visible in the vent. Check on the status of Kilauea at the USGS web site.

Not all lava flows stay within the park. Lava from Kilauea’s summit has been flowing through volcanic tubes to the ocean at Waikupanaha. A lava viewing station is set up at the end of Highway 130, although wind and weather conditions sometimes cause closings. The vent is in a remote area that can’t be accessed. For details on the ocean lava viewing call (808) 961-8093.

More runaway lava flowed to the Pacific and the black sand beaches of Kalapana starting in the late 1980s. Surfers in Hilo still mourn the loss of some terrific break points along the beaches. The newly formed Kalapana beach is a fine place to visit unless you actually want to go swimming.

Hiking the trails and other adventures
Among the famous paths is the Mauna Loa Trail, up the slopes of the mountain to the 13,679 foot summit. Day trippers can venture up for a half day, but the hardy and experienced trekkers will do the 18-mile journey to the top and back, which takes about two days. The less adventurous might want to tackle the Puu Huluhulu Summit trail and the Earthquake Trail. The parks service offers detail on day hikes and backcountry excursions.

Plants and animals: A delicate balance
The volcano park’s seven distinct eco-systems face threats both natural and unnatural. The park’s list of endangered species includes the nene (Hawaiian goose), Hawaiian petrel, hawksbill turtle and the Kau silversword. Feral pigs, sheep, goats, rats and cats are among the invaders that park rangers are trying to eliminate. Rangers say there are 23 species of endangered vascular plants as well as 15 types of endangered trees, all subject to damage from invasive plants and weeds. Six endangered bird species call the park home. Visitors are urged to stay clear of the Hawaiian geese. There are road-crossing signs for the nene.

Archeological sites, petroglyphs
The park is home to about 300 archeological sites, including the famed Puuloa area with its wealth of petroglyphs (lava and rock engravings). The park estimates there are 23,000 petroglyph images at Puuloa. Other petroglyphs are scattered about the park. About 6,000 archeological items are in the park museum’s permanent collection.

Weather in the Volcanoes National Park
Weather in Volcano is as diverse as its eco-systems. Prepare for just about anything: Typical items in a savvy visitor’s suitcase would include sweaters, rain gear, windbreakers, long and short pants, hardy shoes or hiking boots, sunglasses, flashlights and high UV protective sunscreen. The coastal plain and desert areas are hot, dry and windy; the summits and high-altitude observatories can be bone-chillingly wet and windy. Stand by for everything from showers to a tsunami.

Safety in the Volcanoes National Park
“Common sense is not enough,” rangers say of the various dangers, great and small, that await visitors in this dynamic geographical region. Children should not be allowed to play near cliffs, cracks, cravasses, hot lava and steam vents. A fall on lava can be unpleasant or dangerous.

People with asthma, heart trouble and related conditions should steer clear of volcanic gasses (fumes). Pregnant women and infants also should take care with exposure to fumes. The volcano region’s air quality is closely monitored and reported upon. The dangerous gasses can and do lead to evacuations of nearby villages.

Shopping in paradise

Hilo is one of the Big Island’s few shopping destinations. Visitors won’t have any trouble finding the usual tourist trinkets, of course, but savvy shoppers will discover exciting regional crafts, foods and clothing.

The basic mall crawl beckons at the Prince Kuhio Plaza, while Hilo’s famous downtown farmer’s market offers an adventure for the senses. Hilo never runs out of Hawaiian shirts, good and bad. And you’ll be needing that hand-crafted ukelele for the long flight home, of course.

HILO’S MALL
Prince Kuhio Plaza: More than 75 shops and fast-food joints mean you’ll find pretty much anything at this popular mall located in downtown Hilo. Macy’s and Sears anchor the facility. Hot Dog on a Stick, Starbucks, Sunglass Hut, Radio Shack, Footlocker … check. Hosts Hilo’s movie theater of choice for first-run films. Good food court and family entertainment center. 111 E. Puainako St. (808) 959-3555

GROCERIES AND GOODIES
Big Island Candies: This sweet spot has been packing in tourists since 1977. Macadamia nut candies and cookies are made on site, using ingredients such as Kona coffee and local eggs. Also sells brownies, shortbreads, coffees and mints. 585 Hinano St. (808) 935-8890.

Kta Super Stores: Where the locals shop for regional foods. Some shoppers find Kta too expensive, while others say the price is right, especially for the high-quality seafood. Try the poke counter for the Hawaiian dish of seasoned raw fish, onions, soy sauce and seaweed (a cousin to ceviche). Also praised for its bakery, with all things macadamia amd mochi. 50 E. Puainko St. (808) 322-2511. Also, 321 Keawe St.

Hilo Farmers Market: Foodies don’t care if they ever come back from this Wednesday and Saturday-only street adventure. Tropical fruits, leafy-bright vegetables, amazing flowers, carts with every kind of regional ethnic fare. Be sure to sample the white pineapple and the Peruvian tamales. Tourists will find good prices on jewelry and trinkets, some locally crafted. More than 200 vendors, usually. Come early or miss out, locals say. Mamo Street and Kamehameha Ave. (808) 933-1000

Island Naturals Market: The Big Island’s version of Whole Foods, on a smaller scale of course. Meats, wines, organic produce. Vegetarian and vegan fare, to go or eat there. 303 Makaala St. (808) 935-5533. Three other Big Island locations. Also try Abundant Foods and Cafe.

SPECIALTY SHOPS
Hilo Guitars: Bills itself as “the best little guitar and ukulele shop in Hawaii.” Many musicians who visit the Big Island discover the big sounds produced by Hawaii’s little instrument of choice — that is, in the right hands. Here’s the place to get a high-quality musical souvenir. Hilo Guitars stocks ukuleles from Kanile’a, Kamata and G-String, as well as some from the Big Island. Owner Ken Cameron is a Scottish musician with a long history in the business. (808) 935-4282 56 Ponahawaii St.

Discount Fabric Warehouse: Major stash of Hawaiian print fabrics. 933 Kanoelehua Ave. (808) 935-1234

Hilo surf shops: Everything from longboards to skateboards.

CLOTHING
Hilo Hattie: The touchstone for tourists, Hattie offers up your basic Hawaiian shirts, mu’u mu’s, leis, shell and coconut jewelry, Kona coffees, snacks. One-stop shopping for the folks back home. We’ll never tell. In the Prince Kuhio Plaza. (808) 961-3077. Another Big Island Hilo Hattie shop in Kailua-Kona.

Sig Zane Shopping: Good quality, tasteful Hawaiian shirts at a price that’s about a third less than, say, Tommy Bahama. Low-key to amplified designs. Pullovers and button-down styles. For the ladies, an even wider selection of dresses, blouses and hoodies. 122 Kamehameha Ave. (808) 935-7077

LUXURY SHOPPING EXPEDITION
King’s Shops at Waikoloa: Recession? What recession? Cash those traveler’s checks at Tiffany’s and party like it’s 2007. Upscale retailers include Coach, Noa-Noa, Louis Vuitton and several art galleries. In the Waikoloa Beach Resort. About a two-hour drive through the heart of the island.

Lush life, in the gardens

Rain forests, waterfalls, lush landscaped gardens, paradises for bird watchers: Whatever’s needed to relax you, it’s easily found on the Hilo side of the Big Island.

Here are some of our favorite places to take in the island’s abundant natural beauty, all easily reached from Hilo.

Nani Mau Gardens — 20 acres featuring a bevvy of carefully tended gardens. Nani Mau means “forever beautiful,” truth in advertising in this case. Here is the place to stroll, contemplate nature and erase the stresses of everyday life. Waterfalls (pictured, left) and ponds dot the property. One garden is devoted entirely to annuals, refreshed daily. Another takes visitors through a thicket of tree ferns, accented by heart-shaped red anthurium. There are also an orchid walkway and a water garden. Take walking and riding tours of the grounds. As you’d expect, it’s a popular spot for weddings. About three miles south of the Hilo Airport on Highway 11. Look for the landscaped “aloha” logo marking the turnoff onto Makalika Street. Open 9-6 daily. (808) 959-3500.  The Nanimau Gardens is now closed.  The are still open for banquets and special functions.

Liliuokalani Gardens: Peaceful 30-acre Japanese garden with views of Hilo Bay. For those with a yen for zen. The edo-style gardens are among the largest outside Japan. Carp ponds, atmospheric bridges, pagodas, rock gardens and a tea house keep photographers busy. Named for Queen Liliuokalani Gardens, the Big Island’s last ruling monarch. A jogging trail encircles the gardens. Free. Between downtown Hilo and the airport on Banyan Road.

Akaka Falls State Park — A short hike through a fern forest brings you to two photo-op waterfalls: Akaka and Kahuna. Akaka stands a mighty 420 feet tall and freefalls its water into a gorge. It is considered one of the most scenic attractions on the Big Island, think “Fantasy Island.” Kahuna, still impressive at 100 feet, rests at the end of an bamboo grove. The falls’ circular path (an easy 0.4 miles) leads through a rain forest with banyan trees and plenty of wild orchids and vines. Look for the sign near mile marker 13 on Route 19, north of Hilo.

World Botanical Gardens — The triple-tiered Umauma Falls is the star attraction on these 300 acres of greenery. The facility is still under development, but has been open for almost five years. The northern border is the Umauma River, which feeds the 300-foot waterfall. The grounds were used as sugarcane fields. An orchid wall, rainforest walk and choice ocean views are among the highlights. From Hilo, drive west on Highway 19 and look for the sign at marker 16. Open 9-5:30 daily. (808) 896-9434