Fine dining in paradise

In Hilo, the local chefs always think big

Whether it’s the rib-sticking local specialties or the tourist-pleasing gourmet plates, Hilo-area restaurants have much to offer hungry visitors.

Follow the locals to an outdoor patio place or settle in at a romantic restaurant overlooking Hilo Bay. Or dig into seafood and chops as you feel the heat from a live volcano.

Fish doesn’t get much fresher, out here in the Pacific. (Especially if you dine at the aqua farm!) Meat dishes range from island favorite Spam to kalua pig to grass-fed, pasture-raised Big Island beef.

Remember, dressing for dinner is a loose concept in this part of the Big Island. Restaurant dress codes are either nonexistent or quite casual. The aloha spirit keeps the service friendly and welcoming.

Here are some of the best restaurants in the Hilo area:

Ken’s House of Pancakes: A 24-hour diner serving everything from macadamia-nut pancakes to tripe stew. Bargain diners go for the Loco Moco, a rice, beef, gravy and egg dish invented here in Hilo. Moco protein variations include Spam and mahi-mahi. None but the brave go for the belly-busting Sumo Moco. You could kill the morning just reading the menu. Wednesday is the big night for prime rib. (Restaurant map) (808) 935-8711

Hilo Bay Cafe: Considered one of the better dining experiences in town, despite the strip mall location. Sierra Nevada on tap, warm bacon on the salads and gorgonzola on the burgers. Tasteful ambience but no need to dress up. Californians will feel right at home. (Map) (808) 935-4939 (Hilo restaurant review)

Cafe 100: Locals, surfers and adventurous eaters come for the Loco Moco, “an artery-clogging delight.” You order at the window and sit in a patio dining area. Those on a diet should look elsewhere: this is hearty fare done to excess. Getting spammed here is a good thing. All of the local favorites at friendly prices. Some claim the Loco Moco was invented here, but the old timers know better. (Map) (808) 935-8683

Cafe Pesto: Excellent downtown location on Hilo Bay. Asian, Italian and local influences. Known for its designer pizzas, Asian nachos and shrimp-crab sandwiches. Local seafood and ingredients. Thoughtful selection of salads, including seared poke on spinach. Some complaints about price, but not the food. Located in the S. Hata Building, which dates back to 1912. (Map) (808) 969-6640

Seaside Restaurant: The dining annex of a local aqua farm that raises tilapia, catfish, rainbow trout, carp, papio and more. Favorite Seaside menu selections are steamed mullet and fried aholehole. Locals say to preorder your fish before coming, since they’re taken from the ponds and cooked earlier in the day. (808) 935-8825 (Map to Seaside Restaurant)

Naung Mai Thai Kitchen: A much-needed face-lift brings this “hole in the wall’s” decor in line with its often-praised food. Diners like the “great tasting Thai food that won’t damage your pocket book.” Near the local farmers market, where the Thai chefs find their organic produce. Cool off afterwards with the Hilo homemade ice cream. (Map) (808) 934-7540

Also of note:

Kuhio Grille: Try the fried rice Loco Moco. (808) 959-2336

Don’s Grill: Locals crowd in for the budget-minded eats. (808) 935-9099

Blane’s Drive-Ins: Four locations, all serving up loco moco bowls and plates. (808) 935-3359

Sombat’s Fresh Thai Cuisine: Another contender for top Thai in town. (808) 969-9336

Jimmy’s Drive Inn: Sturdy Korean barbecue. Go for the Ozen bento. (808) 935-5571

Have a favorite restaurant in and around Hilo that we missed? Please leave a comment or brief review below.

Arts, culture and science

Observing the observatories

Call it big sky country. The Big Island volcano region hosts some of the world’s most advanced observatories, probing the heavens and our own planet.

With some effort and planning, the peak experience can be found atop the 14,000 summit of Mauna Kea. The observatories aren’t in the theme park business, so don’t plan on guided tours. Instead, you’ll stand on a lunar landscape and be treated to an awesome display of earth, clouds and sky that’s unique on the planet.

Many people find enough adventure with a trip to the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy, where “unmanned” telescopes are the main attraction. Since the center is above the cloud cover, at 9,300 feet, visitors who stay past sunset have vivid views of the planets, stars, constellations, galaxies, supernovas and perhaps sunspots.

Close by in Hilo, just above the local University of Hawaii campus, is the tourist-friendly Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaii. The $28 million facility, with its high-tech planetarium, seeks to “explore the connections between Hawaiian culture and astronomy.”

Exploring the Mauna Kea summit
High above the cloud cover, the summit of Mauna Kea hosts a cluster of 13 telescopes from around the world. Mauna Kea visitors usually can’t look through any of these giant optical devices, unfortunately — they’re always booked by astronomers and scientists studying things like global warming.

Most people who’ve made the trip come away with vivid memories of an otherworldly experience, however. You come for the mind-blowing view and the adventure.

Some basic considerations: A trip to the summit requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Rental car agencies do not permit cars to make the journey. The road is steep and unpaved in part. The Mauna Kea weather forecast is always … unpredictable. Warm clothing is a must due to high winds and the cold. (Winter months are December through early April.) Visitors are not allowed on the summit after dark, although you can stay to experience the sunset. The ride back is the trickiest part. Allow three hours for the roundtrip if starting in Hilo.

The W.M. Keck Observatory hosts a visitors gallery with a video, a viewing area and restrooms. Hours are 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Monday through Friday.

The Subaru Telescope offers tours about 15 days a month. Telescope tour reservations must be made a week in advance via the web site. The presentation lasts about 40 minutes.

At a less intense 9,300 feet above sea level is the the Onizuka Center visitor station, a popular destination and altitude-adjustment waystation. The center has a group of high-quality telescopes that are available to the public. Volunteers from the University of Hawaii’s astronomy program often are on hand to educate and help with the telescopes. Some visitors recommend speaking up in order to get assistance, which can be spotty.

The stargazing operation runs 6 p.m.-10 p.m., although the center opens at 9 a.m. There are basic refreshments (including astronaut ice cream) and a video orientation.

Imiloa Center reaches for the stars
The tourist-friendly Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaii builds upon the discoveries made by the Mauna Kea observatories.

The 40,000-square-foot planetarium and exhibition facility offers interactive exhibits and shows. The planetarium has a state-of-the-art stereoscopic 3D images and a 5.1 audio system. The main presentation is “Maunakea: Between Earth and Sky.” Recent shows included “Black Holes: The Other Side of Infinity” and “Hawaii’s Observatories.” A Friday night presentation built around the music of U2 was another popular showcase for the (real) stars.

Admission is $17.50 for adults, $9.50 for most kids. Kamaaina rates are also available for Hawaii residents.  If you are planning for a group of 12 or more, the center offers special rates.  The Imiloa Center is closed Monday and on Christmas, Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day. The center is open from 9am – 4pm.

Atop Mauna Loa
The Mauna Loa Observatory is an atmospheric-research facility that offers tours by appointment. Mauna Loa is the world’s largest “shield” volcano and one of the most active. The observatory sits about 11,000 feet above sea level, on the volcano’s north flank.

Nightlife at a breezy pace

Tropical drinks, extra umbrellas? Straight no chaser? Corona with a lime?

No problem. Coming right up.

Hilo’s nightlife keeps a relatively low profile — this being a daytime town — but there’s always a watering hole nearby.

Many tourists stay in to enjoy their hotel’s cocktail bar, often a wise choice for meeting and greeting fellow travelers.

But frequent visitors would argue that the best times await those who venture out, sharing the buzz with the town’s usual mix of college kids, tourists and good-timing locals.

Hilo has an active music scene, with traditional Hawaiian acts, rappers, electronica DJs and rock bands all working the bar scene. Don’t like karaoke? Better stay in, after all.

Favorite bars, lounges and clubs in Hilo:

Shooters Bar & Grill: A club that gets its grove on near the midnight hour. DJ, sports on TV, pool tables, darts. Blues jams. Mingle with the locals … but watch your step come closing time. 121 Banyan Drive. (808) 969-7069

Pahoa Lounge: Features live music, usually young Hawaiian music acts. Popular with locals. (808) 933-2667

Palms by the Bay: Karaoke, sushi, pupus, dancing in the aisles. Who could resist. 80 Pauahi St. (808) 961-6461

Cronies: Sports bar and grill with a lively mix of college kids and younger tourists. Order up some regional beer. Decent menu with burgers, sashimi and ribs. Pool tables, karaoke, games. 11 Waianuenue Ave. (808) 935-5158

The Emerald Orchid: Local and craftsman beers. Some dancing and scattered entertainment. A couple of Irish dishes keep the bar’s name honest, but mostly it’s fried bar-stuff and pupus. 168A Keawe St. (808) 961-5400

Bamboo Garden: Locals say this is the place for piles of exceptional pupus, free with the alcohol orders. Sports reign on multiple TVs. Karaoke. 718 Kinoole St. (808) 935-8952

How could we forget?! Leave a comment about your favorite place or tell a story.

Now playing: Hilo movie theaters

Rainy day? Probably. OK, let’s go to the movies!

Hilo’s movie theaters have a total of 15 screens, most of them showing the latest Hollywood blockbusters but a few unspooling arthouse fare: independent and foreign films.

Two of Hilo’s cinemas greet you in buildings that date back the better part of a century. The other offers the comforts of a multiplex, with cushy stadium seating.

View showtimes for today’s moves in Hilo.

Prince Kuhio Theaters: The place to find Hollywood’s hits in the standard multiplex stadium setting. Nine screens. 111 E Puainako Street (808) 959-4595

Kress Cinemas 4: Shows boxoffice faves just before DVD release and occasional foreign and indie fare. Locals rave about the bargain admission prices. Four screens located in the art deco building that for most of its life hosted the island’s S.H. Kress Department Store. Turned into a cinema by the Wallace Theater chain, which specializes in restoring classic theaters. 174 Kamehameha Ave. (808) 961-3456

Palace Theater: Shows movies for movie lovers, not the obvious. Where the college crowd gets its art-film fix. Snack stand features some yummy local goodies. Also home to concerts and community events. The building dates back to 1925. The Palace’s restoration continues with local support. 38 Haili St. (808) 934-7010.

The ‘talk story’ film fest
The Big Island Film Festival – aka “the talk story film festival” — is heading into its fifth year in Waikoloa. The focus is on independent narrative movies, some from regional filmmakers. A handful of past winners of the Golden Honu Awards have gone on to land distribution deals. (808) 883-0394

The Hawaii Film Office has an interesting blog about the movie business in the state.