Surfing Big Island East

Surfers headed to the Hilo area will find dozens of spots worth exploring. Some of these Hilo side surfing beaches are hard to miss; others almost certainly require local knowledge.

Sorry, no North Shore-style giant waves to be found here, but many surfing spots are crowd-free, Pacific-gorgeous and plenty challenging, even for the most experienced riders. In many cases, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to transport people and gear.

Some old-school Big Island favorites, such as the legendary Drainpipe and Smashface in Kalapana, have been lost to lava flow from the Kilauea Volcano, a dynamic unique to the area. A dozen or so spots vanished in the early ’90s, locals say. Beware of hot foot.

The local surf shops will steer visitors to good spots for their skill levels, but some detective work will be required to find the prime breaks. As with any competitive beach environment, surfing etiquette and respect shown to locals go a long way toward avoiding confrontations. Giving up a primo wave or two never hurts.

Winter is pro time. Summer waves are on the smaller side. Know your limits: Many of these breaks are appropriate only for highly accomplished surfers.

Beaches tend to be black sand, white sand or salt-and-pepper mixes. There’s even a green sand beach (but you can’t surf it).

The history of surfing in Hilo goes back to the time of the ancestors’ ancestors.

In 1888, traveler Thomas Knox reported on the tradition of surfing at Hilo Bay, “the sport in the water for which the natives are famous.” The locals were using “planks” up to 15 feet long and made of a “a bread-fruit tree.”

The Hilo region offers a small but robust selection of surf shops in which to pick out your new plank — or rent one.

Top surfing destinations on the east and southeast side of the Island:

Honolii Beach Park (Cove) — Hilo’s main drag for surfers. Beautiful black sand beach. A trio of fun breaks at the mouth of the river. At Paukaa, look for the cemetery.

Hakalau: Something for all levels of surfers. Near the Hakalau Bridge, about 20 minutes north of Hilo. Waves up 16 feet.

Hilo Bay Beachfront: Three thousand feet of black sand, but few swimmers. Used mostly for surfing and other water sports. Water is typically cold and murky. Surfers do their best work near the mouth of the Wailuku River.

Bayfront (Hilo Bay Front): For hardy, experienced surfers only. “Jump off bridge access.” Powerful waves and a tough paddle out.

Hilo Breakwall: For very experienced surfers. Access by boat only. Waves 16 feet and over.

Pohoiki Bay: (Issac Hale Park). Good for most surfers, with nine breaks. Waves at the “third bay” can hit 15 feet. Popular spot appears to have mellowed somewhat from its locals-only days. About 25 miles north of Hilo.

There are numerous surf spots south, southeast and southwest of Pahoa, about 30 minutes away from Hilo.

2-day surfer’s trip: The drop-dead gorgeous Waipio Valley on the northeast coast awaits experienced and adventurous surfers. The famed and feared beach has riptides, undertow and epic rides. Can break like Pipe with some massive waves. Four-wheel-drive truck required to access beach. The locals-only vibe for surfing these breaks requires caution and strict attention to etiquette. Worth it just to experience the enormous cliffs and waterfalls.

The Kona and Kohala coasts host the island’s most active surf scene, with many spots of note and legend.

Surfing conditions: View the Hawaii Surf News charts.

View a rough map of the Big Island’s surfing haunts.

Big Island parks map.

Sharks: They’re out there. Always ask and never hesitate to hit the sand if there’s a warning.

Surfing events: 2009 will see the 25th Quicksilver-Kamaaina Nissan Big Island Pro Am surfing trials. Categories include men’s and women’s open, longboard open and bodyboard open. Runs late May to late September. Hawaii Island residents only. (808) 935-1533

Hilo surf shops:
Orchidland Surfboards — Large selection of stock and custom surfboards, as well as body boards. Owner Stan Lawrence, a local legend, does the shaping for the in-house boards. Repairs and rentals. Dates back to the early 1970s. 262 Kamehameha Ave. (808) 935-1533

Hilo Surfboard Company. New and used boards. Sells boards on consignment. Specializes in board repairs. 84 Ponahawai St. 808 934-0925

Big Island Surf Company (2) — Chain with four locations on the Island. Surf and skateboards. 111 East Puainako St. (808) 959-2472

Big Island Built — Apparel and surf products. Sells and rents boards. In the Prince Kuhio Plaza. (866) 489-5395

In Pahoa, Jeff Hunt Surfboards: Sells Hunt’s signature boards as well as gear and beach apparel. 15-2883 Pahoa Village Road. (808) 965-2322.

Airlines and surfboards:
Almost all domestic airlines charge for surfboards. Priced either by the bag or by the board. Fees start at about $50 and range up to $100-plus each way. Some airlines will not accept boards during the holidays and other busy periods. Airlines cite the size of boards and the special handling required. Surfers have tried boycotts of unfriendly carriers.

Surfers, have something to add? Leave a comment!

Hotels catch a new wave

The hotels of Hilo are clustered around the Bay, providing guests with cooling breezes, rainbows and remarkable views of the ocean and harbor. Location is everything, fans of these hotels say.

Unlike many resort areas in the Hawaiian Islands, the city’s center is close by, with its street life, restaurants, shopping and farmers market. Parks, gardens, golf courses, and surfing and snorkeling spots are among the recreational opportunities within walking distance.

These Banyan Drive hotels are bargains by Hawaiian resort standards. The majority were built before 1975, inspiring a wave of upgrades in recent years. Most of the hotels are undergoing renovations with projects big and small. The mix of older and newer rooms explains why It’s not unusual for guests to report wildly different experiences at the same hotel.

The Hilo hotels all have loyalists who’ve stayed at the same place year after year. New visitors appreciate (and expect) the modernization.

The Naniloa makes a comeback
The city’s signature hotel, the Naniloa Volcanoes Resort, is undergoing the most ambitious restoration. Closed for several years, the Naniloa (top picture) was bought in 2006 by Big Island businessman Ken Fujiyama and reopened in a swirl of activity.

The Naniloa’s renovations have been completed for the Mauna Kea Tower and Mauna Loa Tower.   There are 383 guest rooms. Internet-age communications and business-friendly facilities are among the upgrades.  Included in the upgrades are their ocean front suites which have no equal in Hilo.

The Naniloa’s new design scheme bypasses the generic Hawaiian hotel look in favor of contemporary artwork and multi-ethnic themes. Kristie Fujiyama Kosmides, the family artist, is installing her vibrant modern works in the renovated rooms (right picture), creating the Naniloa Collection.

The custom-designed furniture also goes for a more contemporary look. German limestone tiles and imported fixtures are going into bathrooms. Throughout the facility, fresh tiles are replacing moisture-trapping carpets, brightening the facilities.

Hilo hotels in brief
Here is a roundup of Hilo hotels, along with short descriptions based on guest feedback.

Naniloa Volcanoes Resort — Restored and upgraded rooms with remodeling continuing sitewide. Golf, large pool, business facilities, wireless, breakfast buffet. Beautiful grounds and expansive views of the waterfront. Large flatscreen TVs and contemporary art in rooms. Current Naniloa resort specials: Three night special rates and fall specials.  Make a reservation. Local: (808) 969-3333. $$

Dolphin Bay Hotel — Staff gets high marks for friendliness. Continental breakfast better than most. Located in residential area that’s about a 20-minute walk from Hilo’s center. Kitchens with standard utensils. No air conditioning, no phones in rooms. Toll-free: (877) 935-1466. Local: (808) 935-1466. $

Castle Hilo Hawaiian Hotel — The rooms of choice have ocean/harbor views. Convenient to the airport. Mixed marks for its buffets. Bonus: The hotel is next to Ken’s Pancakes. Toll-free: 800/367-5004. Local: 808/935-9361. $$

Hilo Seaside Hotel – Smaller hotel close to local attractions and the airport. Older facility with a 1950s vibe. Guests praise the value but not the extras. Coin laundry. Toll-free: (800) 560-5557. Local: (808) 935 0821. $

Country Club Hawaii Condo Hotel — Central location. Past guests recommend the remodeled rooms. Low marks for hallways, elevator. Coin laundry. Pool. Toll-free: (866) 935-7171. Local: (808) 935-7171. $

Uncle Billy’s Hilo Bay Hotel — Old Hawaii ambiance in older hotel. Japanese garden-close. Continental breakfast. Toll-free: (800) 367-5102. Local: (808) 935-0861. $

View Hilo hotel and lodging contact info.
Read about the Volcano House and other lodging.

Weddings like a dream

For drama, nothing beats a wedding ceremony at the edge of a volcano. Let the lucky couple’s love burn as bright as the molten lava, the locals say.

Not up for that much heat? The Big Island of Hawaii offers an abundance of beautiful tropical gardens, waterfalls and beaches as places to exchange vows. Or renew them.

When the big day comes on the Big Island, the romance of a world-class destination wedding becomes apparent.

Nani Mau Gardens provides a lush natural environment that has embraced many a wedding party. In fact, it’s often been voted the best place to get married on the Big Island.

Nani Mau has 20 acres of gardens dedicated to tropical flowers, orchids and waterfalls. Couples can be married in the gardens, on a covered walkway or in a pavilion. A tree-planting ceremony is a nice touch.

Nani Mau offers a full suite of wedding-day services, including buffets or banquets g for up to 400 guests.

The gardens are just outside Hilo and about 25 miles northeast of the volcanoes park.

More locations for weddings in the Hilo area:

• Lili’uokalani Park and Gardens (city park)
• Akaka Falls State Park
• Punalu’u Black Sand Beach (Beach House)

Getting a marriage license in Hawaii

Getting married on the Big Island is a breeze. All that’s needed is a marriage license — no blood tests or waiting periods.

The man and woman seeking a license must appear before a licensed marriage agent. Driver’s licenses are accepted as identification and proof of age for those 19 and older. A certified copy of the birth certificate is mandated for 18-year-olds.

In Hilo, the marriage license office is located at:
75 Aupuni Street
Hilo, HI 96720
(808) 974-6262

There also are independent license agents.

The state of Hawaii marriage license costs $60 and is good for 30 days. The Hawaii wedding application can be downloaded and filled out in advance, but cannot sent to the agent via mail.

The person performing the ceremony must be licensed by the state.

Wedding photographers in the Hilo area include:
R.W. Smith Photography
James Rubio Photography
Walczuk Productions

World’s best volcano park

One of the world’s natural wonders, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park dates back to 1916. But visitors have been coming for something like 1,600 years.

The U.S. park covers 377 square miles and is criss-crossed by a network of hiking trails that stretch 150 miles.

Home to two active volcanoes — Kilauea and Mauna Loa — this is a region shaped by fire, ash, lava and earthquakes. Its geographical diversity takes you from rain forests to lunar landscapes. Lava in one form or another will be your constant companion.

The Kilauea caldera (cauldron, roughly) is the home of Pele, the Hawaii goddess of fire, local legends say. Pele stays plenty busy, based on the volcanic activity. Mauna Loa has periodic eruptions and is considered the most massive mountain in the world.

You’ll need at least a half day for a proper visit to the park. The main drag is the Crater Rim Drive, normally an 11-mile drive but parts of the road are closed due to recent volcanic activity.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park admissions, fees
The place is a great deal. $10 yields a seven-day parking permit that covers admission for everyone inside the vehicle. If you’re hiking in, bicycling or on a motorcycle, expect to pay $5 for an individual admission. Same goes for noncommercial groups in buses. An annual pass costs $25. Camping is free and there are no reservations, just stake your claim in the two vehicle-accessible areas or in the backcountry, with permit. The park never closes.

Visitors center, museum
The park itself never closes, but the visitors center shuts down at 5 p.m. The center screens a half-hour film, “Born of Fire … Born of the Sea,” with showings starting at 9 a.m. There is a small gallery nearby featuring, of course, volcano art. The Thomas A. Jaggar Museum shows off seismographs and various tools and clothing worn by generations of volcanologists who ventured into the big heat. There are several small bookstores.

Volcanic eruptions and disruptions
Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, continues the eruptions in its eastern zone that began in March 2008. This was the first explosive eruption of the main Halemaumau crater since 1982, the park says. A series of outbursts has continued since then. Scientists are keeping an eye on the molten lava lake that’s visible in the vent. Check on the status of Kilauea at the USGS web site.

Not all lava flows stay within the park. Lava from Kilauea’s summit has been flowing through volcanic tubes to the ocean at Waikupanaha. A lava viewing station is set up at the end of Highway 130, although wind and weather conditions sometimes cause closings. The vent is in a remote area that can’t be accessed. For details on the ocean lava viewing call (808) 961-8093.

More runaway lava flowed to the Pacific and the black sand beaches of Kalapana starting in the late 1980s. Surfers in Hilo still mourn the loss of some terrific break points along the beaches. The newly formed Kalapana beach is a fine place to visit unless you actually want to go swimming.

Hiking the trails and other adventures
Among the famous paths is the Mauna Loa Trail, up the slopes of the mountain to the 13,679 foot summit. Day trippers can venture up for a half day, but the hardy and experienced trekkers will do the 18-mile journey to the top and back, which takes about two days. The less adventurous might want to tackle the Puu Huluhulu Summit trail and the Earthquake Trail. The parks service offers detail on day hikes and backcountry excursions.

Plants and animals: A delicate balance
The volcano park’s seven distinct eco-systems face threats both natural and unnatural. The park’s list of endangered species includes the nene (Hawaiian goose), Hawaiian petrel, hawksbill turtle and the Kau silversword. Feral pigs, sheep, goats, rats and cats are among the invaders that park rangers are trying to eliminate. Rangers say there are 23 species of endangered vascular plants as well as 15 types of endangered trees, all subject to damage from invasive plants and weeds. Six endangered bird species call the park home. Visitors are urged to stay clear of the Hawaiian geese. There are road-crossing signs for the nene.

Archeological sites, petroglyphs
The park is home to about 300 archeological sites, including the famed Puuloa area with its wealth of petroglyphs (lava and rock engravings). The park estimates there are 23,000 petroglyph images at Puuloa. Other petroglyphs are scattered about the park. About 6,000 archeological items are in the park museum’s permanent collection.

Weather in the Volcanoes National Park
Weather in Volcano is as diverse as its eco-systems. Prepare for just about anything: Typical items in a savvy visitor’s suitcase would include sweaters, rain gear, windbreakers, long and short pants, hardy shoes or hiking boots, sunglasses, flashlights and high UV protective sunscreen. The coastal plain and desert areas are hot, dry and windy; the summits and high-altitude observatories can be bone-chillingly wet and windy. Stand by for everything from showers to a tsunami.

Safety in the Volcanoes National Park
“Common sense is not enough,” rangers say of the various dangers, great and small, that await visitors in this dynamic geographical region. Children should not be allowed to play near cliffs, cracks, cravasses, hot lava and steam vents. A fall on lava can be unpleasant or dangerous.

People with asthma, heart trouble and related conditions should steer clear of volcanic gasses (fumes). Pregnant women and infants also should take care with exposure to fumes. The volcano region’s air quality is closely monitored and reported upon. The dangerous gasses can and do lead to evacuations of nearby villages.

Hiking, cycling: Good to go

The hiking trails in Volcanoes National Park could keep a visitor occupied for an entire stay on the Big Island. You’ll marvel at the lava (and sting from the sulfur fumes). See nature takes back its domains after various volcanic eruptions. Dodge steam vents and cracks in the earth. Hike to the ocean and back. Visit sacred Hawaiian sites. Birdwatch and marvel at the sight of plants you couldn’t even dream up.

There are more than 150 miles of trails in the Volcanoes National Park. Some are pleasant for granny and the kids, others require a good bit of physical conditioning and hiking experience. Here’s a sample, with estimates of difficulty.

Earthquake Trail (easy) — Also known as Waldron Ledge. You’ll stroll along the old Crater Rim Drive, which met its match in a 6.6 earthquake in the 1980s. A good hike for those who are timid about walking on a caldera floor, but want to experience it at a safe distance. Wheelchair friendly thanks to the sealed-off asphalt road. A little under a mile, with easy access from the Volcano House hotel.

Pu’u Huluhulu (moderate). A 3-mile hike that’ll take you to the top of Pu’u Huluhulu for one of the best views in the volcano park. You’ll gaze upon Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea and the Pacific. Lava everywhere, watch your step and consider wearing hiking boots. The walk to the summit Mauna Ulu is an optional extension, not recommended for kids. To access the trail, drive to the Mauna Ulu parking area, off the Chain of Craters Road. (Note: This trail is in the park, not the one off Saddle Road.)

Crater Rim Trail (difficult) — The park calls this “an awe inspiring journey through an active volcano” that circles Kilauea’s summit caldera and the Kilauea Iki pit crater. Eleven miles of hiking through various environments to the elevation of 4,000 feet. Be prepared for abrupt weather shifts, high winds and some nasty sulfur fumes. The park warns that asthma sufferers should avoid the gases. Start early, figure six hours and keep your eyes on the sun.

The National Park Service web site offers quick takes on the volcano trails. Alternative Hawaii has a good guide to hiking in the Volcanoes National Park. Instant Hawaii takes detailed looks at the hiking trails.

Cycling near Hilo: On and off road

The east side of the Big Island is teeming with great bike trails. Aggressive mountain bikers, road riders and sightseers all can find a perfect trail somewhere nearby. Bike trails do become quite slippery after rains (meaning most the time), so know your skill level. Always check out a trail with local bike shops (below). Also, see if you can get a copy of the “Mountain Biking the Hawaiian Islands” book.

A trio of trails

The University of Hawaii at Hilo offers a challenging 1km bike trail that accommodates casual bicyclists but still challenges seasoned mountain bike riders. There are two loops, one fast, one somewhat treacherous. Finishing the course in under 6 minutes is considered good. The trail was built by a professor for the purpose of training mountain bikers and other serious riders. Less-experienced bicyclists should do the inner loop (clockwise) when it’s dry. Wild pigs enjoy the trail, too. Access via the upper athletic parking lot, near the softball field. View an interactive UHH bike trail map with video and riders’ comments.

Kulani Trails — The good news is this is a bracing 6-plus-mile ride located in a forest. The bad is you’ll need help. Local knowledge is almost certainly needed to fully appreciate the singletrack trails. Famed for its 4 p.m. Friday rides, in which the local heavies do the trails, no matter the weather. The fire roads are good for beginners. About six miles south of Hilo. Take Highway 11 toward Volcano. Turn right on Stainback highway and go a couple of miles, passing the zoo. Look for the Kunali Forest and Quarry Road sign. Consult local bike shops before hitting the trail.

Tree Planters — A dual track ride that can kill a day. The action is all off-road. Directions are the same as for the Kulani Trails, but instead of turning at the quarry continue 12 miles or so until Road P, take a right.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park — All roads are open to bicyclists. The park suggests cyclists start their trip at the Kilauea Visitor Center for the latest on trails and closures. View the volcano park bicycling map.

An outfit called Bikevolcano.com does well-regarded cycling tours of the Kilauea Volcano. (808) 934-9199

Here are two of Hilo’s top bike shops:

Hilo Bike Hub — The bicycle shop of choice for those ready to drop some bucks on a new ride. All repair and upgrade services. The shop features mountain bikes, road bikes, kids bikes and BMX. Good place to go for assembly if you’ve had a bicycle shipped to the island. Repository of local knowledge of trails. 318 East Kawili St. (808) 961-4452.

Da Kine Bike Shop — “New, used and vintage bikes and parts” at this downtown Hilo shop run by Bill Jackson. The logo and web site focus on “recycled bicycles.” The shop also runs bicycle tours of the area, complete with casual catering and a “sag wagon” for extra-weary riders. A rent-to-buy program might make sense for visitors who aren’t in a hurry to leave the island. 18 Furneaux Lane. (808) 934-9861

In Pahoa try the Aikane Bicycle and Sport Shop. (808) 966-6060

Alternative Hawaii has a good guide to cycling in the Volcanoes National Park.