Surfing Big Island East

Surfers headed to the Hilo area will find dozens of spots worth exploring. Some of these Hilo side surfing beaches are hard to miss; others almost certainly require local knowledge.

Sorry, no North Shore-style giant waves to be found here, but many surfing spots are crowd-free, Pacific-gorgeous and plenty challenging, even for the most experienced riders. In many cases, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to transport people and gear.

Some old-school Big Island favorites, such as the legendary Drainpipe and Smashface in Kalapana, have been lost to lava flow from the Kilauea Volcano, a dynamic unique to the area. A dozen or so spots vanished in the early ’90s, locals say. Beware of hot foot.

The local surf shops will steer visitors to good spots for their skill levels, but some detective work will be required to find the prime breaks. As with any competitive beach environment, surfing etiquette and respect shown to locals go a long way toward avoiding confrontations. Giving up a primo wave or two never hurts.

Winter is pro time. Summer waves are on the smaller side. Know your limits: Many of these breaks are appropriate only for highly accomplished surfers.

Beaches tend to be black sand, white sand or salt-and-pepper mixes. There’s even a green sand beach (but you can’t surf it).

The history of surfing in Hilo goes back to the time of the ancestors’ ancestors.

In 1888, traveler Thomas Knox reported on the tradition of surfing at Hilo Bay, “the sport in the water for which the natives are famous.” The locals were using “planks” up to 15 feet long and made of a “a bread-fruit tree.”

The Hilo region offers a small but robust selection of surf shops in which to pick out your new plank — or rent one.

Top surfing destinations on the east and southeast side of the Island:

Honolii Beach Park (Cove) — Hilo’s main drag for surfers. Beautiful black sand beach. A trio of fun breaks at the mouth of the river. At Paulaa, look for the cemetery.

Hakalau: Something for all levels of surfers. Near the Hakalau Bridge, about 20 minutes north of Hilo. Waves up 16 feet.

Hilo Bay Beachfront: Three thousand feet of black sand, but few swimmers. Used mostly for surfing and other water sports. Water is typically cold and murky. Surfers do their best work near the mouth of the Wailuku River.

Bayfront (Hilo Bay Front): For hardy, experienced surfers only. “Jump off bridge access.” Powerful waves and a tough paddle out.

Hilo Breakwall: For very experienced surfers. Access by boat only. Waves 16 feet and over.

Pohoiki Bay: (Issac Hale Park). Good for most surfers, with nine breaks. Waves at the “third bay” can hit 15 feet. Popular spot appears to have mellowed somewhat from its locals-only days. About 25 miles north of Hilo.

There are numerous surf spots south, southeast and southwest of Pahoa, about 30 minutes away from Hilo.

2-day surfer’s trip: The drop-dead gorgeous Waipio Valley on the northeast coast awaits experienced and adventurous surfers. The famed and feared beach has riptides, undertow and epic rides. Can break like Pipe with some massive waves. Four-wheel-drive truck required to access beach. The locals-only vibe for surfing these breaks requires caution and strict attention to etiquette. Worth it just to experience the enormous cliffs and waterfalls.

The Kona and Kohala coasts host the island’s most active surf scene, with many spots of note and legend.

Surfing conditions: View the Hawaii Surf News charts.

View a rough map of the Big Island’s surfing haunts.

Big Island parks map.

Sharks: They’re out there. Always ask and never hesitate to hit the sand if there’s a warning.

Surfing events: 2009 will see the 25th Quicksilver-Kamaaina Nissan Big Island Pro Am surfing trials. Categories include men’s and women’s open, longboard open and bodyboard open. Runs late May to late September. Hawaii Island residents only. (808) 935-1533

Hilo surf shops:
Orchidland Surfboards — Large selection of stock and custom surfboards, as well as body boards. Owner Stan Lawrence, a local legend, does the shaping for the in-house boards. Repairs and rentals. Dates back to the early 1970s. 262 Kamehameha Ave. (808) 935-1533

Hilo Surfboard Company. New and used boards. Sells boards on consignment. Specializes in board repairs. 84 Ponahawai St. 808 934-0925

Big Island Surf Company (2) — Chain with four locations on the Island. Surf and skateboards. 111 East Puainako St. (808) 959-2472

Big Island Built — Apparel and surf products. Sells and rents boards. In the Prince Kuhio Plaza. (866) 489-5395

In Pahoa, Jeff Hunt Surfboards: Sells Hunt’s signature boards as well as gear and beach apparel. 15-2883 Pahoa Village Road. (808) 965-2322.

Airlines and surfboards:
Almost all domestic airlines charge for surfboards. Priced either by the bag or by the board. Fees start at about $50 and range up to $100-plus each way. Some airlines will not accept boards during the holidays and other busy periods. Airlines cite the size of boards and the special handling required. Surfers have tried boycotts of unfriendly carriers.

Surfers, have something to add? Leave a comment!

Golf: Greenest greens ever

Big hitters and fairway runners alike will enjoy the Hilo area’s 18- and 9-hole courses. Hilo’s municipal course does the city proud, with fun, long-running links and great views. Experienced golfers will want to experience the Volcano Course, on the slopes of the Mauna Loa.

These are not your overpriced Hawaiian resort courses. In general, the Big Island east’s greens fees are reasonable and the courses don’t skimp on those terrific island views.

Volcano Golf Course: Play 18 on the rim of the Kilauea crater — and forget about those balls lost to lava. The 6,500-yard course is located in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, about a half hour away from Hilo down Route 11.

Expect a challenge, especially on the greens as the ball breaks in mysterious ways toward the gigantic Mauna Loa volcano. Greens fees run $70 for visitors. The carts included, and you’ll need it because the course is something like 4,000 feet above sea level. There’s a $15 break in the cost after noon. Rental clubs available. Give our regards to No. 15. (808) 967-8228. Pi’i Mauna Drive, Volcano, Hi.

Hilo Municipal Golf Course: “The Muni” serves up 18 holes across 6,325 yards. Views of Hilo Bay. Tee boxes look down on flat fairways on which balls tend to run. No bunkers. Good for long hitters and high handicappers. Greens fees about $45 with $5 off for weekdays. 340 Haihai St., Hilo (808) 959-7711 (Map to golf course)

Naniloa Country Club: Let’s play two! This nine-hole course in the Banyan Drive area features beautiful views of Hilo Bay. Greens fees are reasonable for the islands — $40-45, cart included. 120 Banyan Drive, Hilo. (808) 935-3000. (Map to golf course)

Waimea Country Club: Worth the hour-plus drive up the coast from Hilo. Outstanding fast greens and 6,600 yards to cover. Views of the ocean and the volcano Mauna Kea. Four par 5s await power hitters on this Scottish links-style course. Fees run upwards of $100 for non-residents wanting a cart. $20 discount after 1 p.m. Preview the Waimea golf course, hole by hole. (808) 885-8777. (Map to golf course)

Tee Time Hawaii handles the necessities for most golf courses and offers some discounts.

Hiking, cycling: Good to go

The hiking trails in Volcanoes National Park could keep a visitor occupied for an entire stay on the Big Island. You’ll marvel at the lava (and sting from the sulfur fumes). See nature takes back its domains after various volcanic eruptions. Dodge steam vents and cracks in the earth. Hike to the ocean and back. Visit sacred Hawaiian sites. Birdwatch and marvel at the sight of plants you couldn’t even dream up.

There are more than 150 miles of trails in the Volcanoes National Park. Some are pleasant for granny and the kids, others require a good bit of physical conditioning and hiking experience. Here’s a sample, with estimates of difficulty.

Earthquake Trail (easy) — Also known as Waldron Ledge. You’ll stroll along the old Crater Rim Drive, which met its match in a 6.6 earthquake in the 1980s. A good hike for those who are timid about walking on a caldera floor, but want to experience it at a safe distance. Wheelchair friendly thanks to the sealed-off asphalt road. A little under a mile, with easy access from the Volcano House hotel.

Pu’u Huluhulu (moderate). A 3-mile hike that’ll take you to the top of Pu’u Huluhulu for one of the best views in the volcano park. You’ll gaze upon Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea and the Pacific. Lava everywhere, watch your step and consider wearing hiking boots. The walk to the summit Mauna Ulu is an optional extension, not recommended for kids. To access the trail, drive to the Mauna Ulu parking area, off the Chain of Craters Road. (Note: This trail is in the park, not the one off Saddle Road.)

Crater Rim Trail (difficult) — The park calls this “an awe inspiring journey through an active volcano” that circles Kilauea’s summit caldera and the Kilauea Iki pit crater. Eleven miles of hiking through various environments to the elevation of 4,000 feet. Be prepared for abrupt weather shifts, high winds and some nasty sulfur fumes. The park warns that asthma sufferers should avoid the gases. Start early, figure six hours and keep your eyes on the sun.

The National Park Service web site offers quick takes on the volcano trails. Alternative Hawaii has a good guide to hiking in the Volcanoes National Park. Instant Hawaii takes detailed looks at the hiking trails.

Cycling near Hilo: On and off road

The east side of the Big Island is teeming with great bike trails. Aggressive mountain bikers, road riders and sightseers all can find a perfect trail somewhere nearby. Bike trails do become quite slippery after rains (meaning most the time), so know your skill level. Always check out a trail with local bike shops (below). Also, see if you can get a copy of the “Mountain Biking the Hawaiian Islands” book.

A trio of trails

The University of Hawaii at Hilo offers a challenging 1km bike trail that accommodates casual bicyclists but still challenges seasoned mountain bike riders. There are two loops, one fast, one somewhat treacherous. Finishing the course in under 6 minutes is considered good. The trail was built by a professor for the purpose of training mountain bikers and other serious riders. Less-experienced bicyclists should do the inner loop (clockwise) when it’s dry. Wild pigs enjoy the trail, too. Access via the upper athletic parking lot, near the softball field. View an interactive UHH bike trail map with video and riders’ comments.

Kulani Trails — The good news is this is a bracing 6-plus-mile ride located in a forest. The bad is you’ll need help. Local knowledge is almost certainly needed to fully appreciate the singletrack trails. Famed for its 4 p.m. Friday rides, in which the local heavies do the trails, no matter the weather. The fire roads are good for beginners. About six miles south of Hilo. Take Highway 11 toward Volcano. Turn right on Stainback highway and go a couple of miles, passing the zoo. Look for the Kunali Forest and Quarry Road sign. Consult local bike shops before hitting the trail.

Tree Planters — A dual track ride that can kill a day. The action is all off-road. Directions are the same as for the Kulani Trails, but instead of turning at the quarry continue 12 miles or so until Road P, take a right.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park — All roads are open to bicyclists. The park suggests cyclists start their trip at the Kilauea Visitor Center for the latest on trails and closures. View the volcano park bicycling map.

An outfit called Bikevolcano.com does well-regarded cycling tours of the Kilauea Volcano. (808) 934-9199

Here are two of Hilo’s top bike shops:

Hilo Bike Hub — The bicycle shop of choice for those ready to drop some bucks on a new ride. All repair and upgrade services. The shop features mountain bikes, road bikes, kids bikes and BMX. Good place to go for assembly if you’ve had a bicycle shipped to the island. Repository of local knowledge of trails. 318 East Kawili St. (808) 961-4452.

Da Kine Bike Shop — “New, used and vintage bikes and parts” at this downtown Hilo shop run by Bill Jackson. The logo and web site focus on “recycled bicycles.” The shop also runs bicycle tours of the area, complete with casual catering and a “sag wagon” for extra-weary riders. A rent-to-buy program might make sense for visitors who aren’t in a hurry to leave the island. 18 Furneaux Lane. (808) 934-9861

In Pahoa try the Aikane Bicycle and Sport Shop. (808) 966-6060

Alternative Hawaii has a good guide to cycling in the Volcanoes National Park.