World’s best volcano park

One of the world’s natural wonders, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park dates back to 1916. But visitors have been coming for something like 1,600 years.

The U.S. park covers 377 square miles and is criss-crossed by a network of hiking trails that stretch 150 miles.

Home to two active volcanoes — Kilauea and Mauna Loa — this is a region shaped by fire, ash, lava and earthquakes. Its geographical diversity takes you from rain forests to lunar landscapes. Lava in one form or another will be your constant companion.

The Kilauea caldera (cauldron, roughly) is the home of Pele, the Hawaii goddess of fire, local legends say. Pele stays plenty busy, based on the volcanic activity. Mauna Loa has periodic eruptions and is considered the most massive mountain in the world.

You’ll need at least a half day for a proper visit to the park. The main drag is the Crater Rim Drive, normally an 11-mile drive but parts of the road are closed due to recent volcanic activity.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park admissions, fees
The place is a great deal. $10 yields a seven-day parking permit that covers admission for everyone inside the vehicle. If you’re hiking in, bicycling or on a motorcycle, expect to pay $5 for an individual admission. Same goes for noncommercial groups in buses. An annual pass costs $25. Camping is free and there are no reservations, just stake your claim in the two vehicle-accessible areas or in the backcountry, with permit. The park never closes.

Visitors center, museum
The park itself never closes, but the visitors center shuts down at 5 p.m. The center screens a half-hour film, “Born of Fire … Born of the Sea,” with showings starting at 9 a.m. There is a small gallery nearby featuring, of course, volcano art. The Thomas A. Jaggar Museum shows off seismographs and various tools and clothing worn by generations of volcanologists who ventured into the big heat. There are several small bookstores.

Volcanic eruptions and disruptions
Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, continues the eruptions in its eastern zone that began in March 2008. This was the first explosive eruption of the main Halemaumau crater since 1982, the park says. A series of outbursts has continued since then. Scientists are keeping an eye on the molten lava lake that’s visible in the vent. Check on the status of Kilauea at the USGS web site.

Not all lava flows stay within the park. Lava from Kilauea’s summit has been flowing through volcanic tubes to the ocean at Waikupanaha. A lava viewing station is set up at the end of Highway 130, although wind and weather conditions sometimes cause closings. The vent is in a remote area that can’t be accessed. For details on the ocean lava viewing call (808) 961-8093.

More runaway lava flowed to the Pacific and the black sand beaches of Kalapana starting in the late 1980s. Surfers in Hilo still mourn the loss of some terrific break points along the beaches. The newly formed Kalapana beach is a fine place to visit unless you actually want to go swimming.

Hiking the trails and other adventures
Among the famous paths is the Mauna Loa Trail, up the slopes of the mountain to the 13,679 foot summit. Day trippers can venture up for a half day, but the hardy and experienced trekkers will do the 18-mile journey to the top and back, which takes about two days. The less adventurous might want to tackle the Puu Huluhulu Summit trail and the Earthquake Trail. The parks service offers detail on day hikes and backcountry excursions.

Plants and animals: A delicate balance
The volcano park’s seven distinct eco-systems face threats both natural and unnatural. The park’s list of endangered species includes the nene (Hawaiian goose), Hawaiian petrel, hawksbill turtle and the Kau silversword. Feral pigs, sheep, goats, rats and cats are among the invaders that park rangers are trying to eliminate. Rangers say there are 23 species of endangered vascular plants as well as 15 types of endangered trees, all subject to damage from invasive plants and weeds. Six endangered bird species call the park home. Visitors are urged to stay clear of the Hawaiian geese. There are road-crossing signs for the nene.

Archeological sites, petroglyphs
The park is home to about 300 archeological sites, including the famed Puuloa area with its wealth of petroglyphs (lava and rock engravings). The park estimates there are 23,000 petroglyph images at Puuloa. Other petroglyphs are scattered about the park. About 6,000 archeological items are in the park museum’s permanent collection.

Weather in the Volcanoes National Park
Weather in Volcano is as diverse as its eco-systems. Prepare for just about anything: Typical items in a savvy visitor’s suitcase would include sweaters, rain gear, windbreakers, long and short pants, hardy shoes or hiking boots, sunglasses, flashlights and high UV protective sunscreen. The coastal plain and desert areas are hot, dry and windy; the summits and high-altitude observatories can be bone-chillingly wet and windy. Stand by for everything from showers to a tsunami.

Safety in the Volcanoes National Park
“Common sense is not enough,” rangers say of the various dangers, great and small, that await visitors in this dynamic geographical region. Children should not be allowed to play near cliffs, cracks, cravasses, hot lava and steam vents. A fall on lava can be unpleasant or dangerous.

People with asthma, heart trouble and related conditions should steer clear of volcanic gasses (fumes). Pregnant women and infants also should take care with exposure to fumes. The volcano region’s air quality is closely monitored and reported upon. The dangerous gasses can and do lead to evacuations of nearby villages.